FAQ's

Wood is a natural material and therefore a certain amount of movement can be expected. This is due to the absorption and release of moisture which results in the swelling and shrinking of the timber. Throughout the year, we experience a range of weather patterns – cold, damp conditions create high humidity levels causing the wood to swell, whereas heating and sunlight have the reverse effect. All timber used in flooring is seasoned or kiln dried to reduce the moisture content in the wood, however the wood´s ability to absorb moisture remains. This is reduced by a polyurethane or oil finish being applied to the wood either in the factory for prefinished engineered timber or directly onto the floor, once installed, in the case of solid timber. We recommend that all concrete subfloors are moisture sealed prior to installation. In floating floors, the underlay is moisture proofed or plastic sheeting is laid. However, a small degree of expansion and contraction is to be expected in any wooden floor. 8 to 12mm expansion gaps are left between the floor and the wall to allow the timber to grow and shrink. These gaps are covered by skirting or beadings and trims. To help minimise these effects users can stabilise the environment of the building through temperature and humidity control.

A certain amount of wear and tear, along with some minor scratches, are to be expected over time. These can add to the character of the wooden floor and are usually considered a feature, not a defect. Prefinished engineered floors can be sanded and recoated with polyurethane 3-4 times, whilst solid timber floors can be sanded and refinished 2-3 times. Sanding and recoating floors extend their lifetime and help eliminate the possibility of moisture seeping into high traffic areas where the polyurethane or oil finish has become worn.

All forms of heating – including freestanding heaters, radiators, heat pumps, under floor heating etc. affect the temperature of the floor and need to be increased and decreased gradually. Insulation in concrete slabs, dehumidifiers and heat transfer kits will also impact on the temperature and humidity level of your timber floor. The floor should remain at a temperature below 24° C or 75° F, no matter what type of heating is used.

All natural products are affected by the sun. Excessive amounts of strong sunlight and UV rays will have a detrimental affect on wooden floors. It will dry out the timber and cracks may appear; in addition to this it will bleach the wood and the area may become significantly lighter. This can be greatly reduced by choosing a window glass which minimises the transmission of ultra-violet light from the sun and reduces the heat gain in a room from bright sunlight.

Each floor is part of a building system and the performance of the floor is dependent on other elements within the building. The key element which influences the way a timber floor will react is moisture. As mentioned above, wood is hygroscopic, absorbing and releasing moisture to and from the air depending on the temperature and relative humidity of the air. This loss, gain or redistribution of moisture creates visible movement. You can expect your floor to move to some extent. You can expect fine gaps to appear from season to season, especially in rooms which experience unusual or significant changes in humidity and temperature (both from heating and sunlight).

The moisture content of timber in a building moves towards the Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC) of that building. EMC is a function of the average temperature and relative humidity of the building.

In general, floating floors will react more to a high EMC than direct fix floors and moisture problems can result in cupping and/or swelling. When the EMC falls back within the range, cupping and shrinkage should correct itself.

Bathrooms and laundries can often have higher EMC´s. In these areas, the timber should be well looked after and the following steps should be taken to keep the EMC within an acceptable range.

• • Prevent water leaking from washing machines, shower doors and other plumbing fixtures.
• • Do not leave puddles of water, damp towels, bathmats or clothes on the floors.
• • Use extraction fans and heaters, as well as heated towel rails.

If the house is being maintained at a comfortable temperature and relative humidity, then the EMC should not go above 13%. Moisture content above this usually indicates a problem such as inadequate ventilation, moisture egress from the subfloor or plumbing or drainage problems.

Please be aware that there are potential problem areas within a house where the floor may be more likely to take on moisture. This may result in expansion, possibly damaging the finish – for example by the base of external doors that do not have adequate door seals; rooms on the south side of houses which are seldom used and are unheated during winter; doorways with immediate access to the house from swimming and spa pools; underneath dishwashers which accidentally drip; potentially “wet areas” such as bathrooms and laundries as previously discussed. It is not recommended that a house is left unheated for long periods during winter, as the EMC will rise without the drying effect of the heating and venting associated with normal occupation.

During the application of polyurethane all animal and plant life should be out of the building area due to the possibility of inhaling toxic fumes and skin or eye contact irritation with the product. Once the polyurethane has dried and cured the floor is safe. We would highly recommend a minimal of 5 to 7 days for this cure process for health & safety issues alongside the practicality of not marking the floor, but ultimately that is at the discretion of the owners.